What is underpainting makeup? It’s a makeup technique in which you apply contour, highlight, and sometimes other complexion products before foundation, rather than on top of it. Then you blend foundation over those products in a thin layer, letting the underlying color and dimension show through softly.
The technique became a major beauty trend on social media after makeup artist Mary Phillips shared the method she has used on clients such as Jennifer Lopez, Kendall Jenner, and Hailey Bieber. Phillips has also explained that she didn’t invent underpainting and learned the approach from older professional makeup techniques and the work of makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin.
The appeal is the finished effect. Instead of seeing obvious contour and highlight sitting on top of foundation, the dimension appears to come from underneath the skin. The result can look more seamless, softly sculpted, and less makeup-heavy while still giving the face noticeable definition.
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What Is Underpainting Makeup?
Underpainting makeup reverses the usual order of complexion application.
With a more traditional routine, you might apply foundation first, then contour, blush, and highlighter. With underpainting, you establish some of that color and structure first, then apply a light veil of foundation over it. Professional makeup artists have used this layering technique for years, long before it became a social media trend.
Contour is generally placed where you want to create shadow, while highlight is added to areas you want to bring forward. You can also incorporate blush, although some underpainting approaches keep it as a finishing step.
The foundation doesn’t completely erase what is underneath. Instead, it softens the edges and reduces the intensity, leaving enough color behind to create subtle dimension.
Why Does Underpainting Makeup Look So Natural?
The secret is the thin layer of complexion makeup placed over the sculpting products.
When contour sits directly on top of foundation, the contrast between the two products can be easier to see. With underpainting, the foundation layer softens that contrast, creating a less obvious transition.
The technique can therefore produce definition without the appearance of a distinct contour stripe. Makeup artist Jill Powell has described the method as creating a soft-focus effect because the complexion layer diffuses the color underneath.
This doesn’t mean underpainting will always look invisible. The amount of product underneath and the foundation’s coverage determine how much of the underlying contour and highlight remains visible.
What Products Do You Need for Underpainting?
You can create underpainting with products you already use in a normal makeup routine.
A basic version requires a contour product, a highlight or brightening product, and foundation. You can also use concealer beneath foundation, especially around the eyes or in areas where you want extra brightness.
Cream and liquid products are especially easy to use because they blend into one another before you apply foundation. Professional makeup artists interviewed by Allure recommend creamy textures for this technique because they create a seamless, skin-like finish.
You don’t need a separate underpainting kit.
The technique is about the order of application, not buying products specifically labeled for underpainting.
How Do You Do Underpainting Makeup?
Start with clean, comfortable skin and apply your usual skincare.
Once your skin is ready, apply a small amount of contour where you want structure. Common areas include beneath the cheekbones, along the jawline, near the hairline, and along the sides of the nose.
Blend the contour before moving on. It should already look relatively natural because the foundation will soften it further, but you don’t want large, unblended patches underneath.
Add highlight to the high points of the face, such as the cheekbones, brow bone, inner corners, and other areas where you want brightness.
Then apply a thin layer of foundation over the entire complexion. A damp makeup sponge or soft brush can help distribute the foundation without lifting the products underneath. Makeup artists interviewed by Allure and Vogue recommend a light hand at this stage so the underlying dimension remains visible.
Finish with whichever complexion products you haven’t already applied.
Where Do You Apply Underpainting Contour?
Apply underpainting contour based on the structure you want to emphasize.
Applying it beneath the cheekbones can create more apparent cheek definition. Along the jawline can add structure, while a little near the hairline can create subtle depth around the forehead.
For the nose, apply contour along the sides rather than creating one heavy line down each side.
The key is using less product than you might expect.
Because you’ll apply foundation over the contour, a small amount can make a noticeable difference once the layers are finished.
How Do You Underpaint Your Cheekbones?
Start by placing contour just beneath where you want the cheekbone to look more defined.
Instead of drawing a long, thick stripe, use less product and keep it close to the cheekbone.
Blend the lower edge downward while keeping the strongest part of the shadow close to the area you want to emphasize.
You can also bring a small amount upward toward the temple.
The goal is not to completely sculpt a new cheekbone. You’re creating a subtle shadow that will remain underneath the complexion.
Can You Underpaint Your Nose?
Yes, but the nose requires a particularly light touch.
Use a small brush to apply a narrow amount of contour along the sides of the nose. You can also add a tiny amount near the tip for more definition.
Blend the product before foundation.
When you apply foundation over it, it should soften the contour enough that you don’t see two obvious brown lines.
A little can create a noticeable effect, so start with less than you think you’ll need.
Where Do You Apply Underpainting Highlight?
You can place highlight anywhere you want to create brightness or bring a feature forward.
Common areas include the tops of the cheekbones, brow bone, center of the forehead, bridge of the nose, cupid’s bow, and inner corners.
You can also use concealer beneath the foundation in areas that need extra brightness or coverage.
Keep the underlying highlight relatively thin. Too much bright product underneath can make the complexion look patchy once you apply foundation.
The goal is a subtle glow rather than a highly reflective highlight underneath the base.
Can You Underpaint Blush?
Yes, although blush isn’t required for every version of the technique.
Some makeup artists keep blush as a finishing step after foundation, while other variations incorporate cream blush underneath the complexion. Vogue has also covered the related technique of applying blush beneath foundation or concealer to create a more integrated skin-like flush.
When using blush underneath foundation, choose a buildable cream or liquid formula.
Apply it sparingly and blend it well before adding your complexion layer.
The finished blush should appear softer and more diffused than it would if you applied the same amount directly on top.
What Foundation Works Best for Underpainting?
A lightweight or buildable foundation is usually the easiest option.
The technique depends on some of the underlying dimension remaining visible, so an extremely opaque foundation can cover too much of the work underneath.
A sheer complexion product or skin tint can create a particularly subtle result.
You can still use a fuller coverage foundation, though. Applying it in thin layers lets you control how much contour and highlight remains visible.
Allure’s coverage notes that lighter coverage tends to work well for a natural result, while you can add thin layers when you need more coverage.
Should You Use Cream or Powder Products?
Cream and liquid products are generally the easiest place to start.
You can blend them directly into the skin, and they tend to work well under a liquid or cream foundation.
You can also incorporate powder products into an underpainting routine, especially under powder foundation. Makeup artist Jill Powell explains that you can apply contour, blush, and highlight first, then top it with a light veil of powder foundation.
When you’re learning the technique, keeping the products within the same general texture family can make the process easier.
For example, cream contour underneath a liquid foundation is a straightforward combination.
Can You Use Underpainting With Full Coverage Foundation?
Yes, but apply it more lightly.
A full coverage foundation applied heavily can obscure the contour and highlight underneath, removing much of the reason for using the technique.
One approach is to apply a very sheer first layer and evaluate the result before adding more.
You can then build additional coverage only where you need it.
This allows you to get the coverage you want without completely covering the underlying dimension.
Does Underpainting Replace Traditional Contouring?
It doesn’t have to.
Underpainting is an alternative way to apply contour, but you can still add a small amount afterward if you want more definition.
The main difference is that traditional contour is visible on top of the foundation, while underpainted contour is partially softened by the foundation layer.
You can also combine both methods.
Start with subtle contour underneath, apply your complexion, and then add a small amount on top if you want additional structure.
Is Underpainting Good for Beginners?
It can actually be easier than traditional contouring for some people.
Because the foundation softens the contour underneath, small mistakes can become less noticeable.
This makes the technique useful when you’re still learning how much contour looks natural on your face. Allure’s makeup artist sources specifically recommend underpainting as an approachable way to experiment with contour because the foundation creates a softer final effect.
You still need to blend the products underneath, but the final layer gives you room to adjust.
Start with a small amount of contour and increase it gradually as you become more comfortable.
What Are the Most Common Underpainting Mistakes?
Using too much product is one of the easiest mistakes to make.
Because you know the foundation is going over the top, it can be tempting to apply a heavy amount of contour underneath. That can leave too much color showing through and create a muddy complexion.
Another mistake is choosing a contour that is too warm. A very orange bronzer isn’t always the best choice for creating an underlying shadow.
Applying a heavy foundation layer can also defeat the technique’s purpose.
Finally, don’t skip blending before the foundation. The complexion layer will soften the contour, but it isn’t intended to rescue large areas of unblended product.
How Do You Keep Underpainting From Looking Muddy?
Choose shades that create separation without becoming excessively dark.
A neutral or slightly cool contour generally works better for creating a shadow, while bronzer can be added later when you want warmth.
Keep the contour concentrated rather than spreading it across large areas of the face.
Blend your foundation carefully so the underlying colors merge with your complexion.
A clean makeup sponge can be especially useful for pressing foundation over the contour without dragging it around.
How Do You Keep Underpainting From Disappearing?
Use a lighter foundation layer.
One of the biggest reasons underpainting can seem ineffective is applying enough foundation to completely cover everything underneath.
You can also slightly increase the intensity of the contour and highlight before applying the complexion layer, but do this gradually.
Another option is to apply the foundation with a tapping or bouncing motion instead of aggressively buffing over the underlying makeup.
The goal is to veil the color rather than erase it.
Can You Underpaint for Oily Skin?
Yes.
The technique itself doesn’t require a dewy complexion.
You can use cream or liquid complexion products underneath and then set the finished face selectively with powder.
If you prefer a more matte look, you can also use a light layer of powder foundation over the underpainting. Makeup artist Jill Powell notes that powder foundation can work with the technique when you want a more controlled finish.
The key is keeping the layers thin enough that the complexion doesn’t become overly heavy.
Can You Underpaint for Dry Skin?
Yes, and skin preparation becomes particularly important.
Underpainting relies on blending products directly against the skin, so dry or unevenly textured areas can make application harder.
Use the skincare products that normally work for your complexion and give them enough time to settle before applying makeup.
Cream contour, cream highlight, and a lightweight foundation can create a seamless result.
The goal isn’t necessarily maximum glow. It’s about creating a flexible base that lets the layers blend without catching on dry areas.
Is Underpainting the Same as Reverse Contouring?
The terms can sound similar, but underpainting specifically refers to applying complexion color and structure before the foundation layer.
Reverse contouring is sometimes used more loosely to describe techniques that change the traditional order of complexion application.
Underpainting is the more established term for the professional technique of laying down contour and highlight first and then softening it with foundation.
The essential feature is the layering order.
Is Underpainting the Same as No-Makeup Makeup?
No, although the final result can be surprisingly subtle.
No-makeup makeup focuses on making the makeup itself difficult to detect.
Underpainting is an application technique you can use for many different levels of makeup.
You can use it to create a barely noticeable complexion or a much more sculpted look.
The technique doesn’t determine how dramatic the overall face will be.
Is Underpainting the Same as Cream Contouring?
Not exactly.
Cream contour simply describes the texture of the contour product.
Underpainting describes when you apply that contour.
You can use cream contour in a traditional routine by applying it over foundation, or you can use the same cream contour as part of an underpainting routine.
The order of application is what changes the technique.
How Can You Make Underpainting Look More Glamorous?
Increase the definition gradually.
Use a slightly stronger contour underneath the foundation and add more visible highlight to the cheekbones and center of the face.
After applying foundation, you can add additional blush, highlighter, or contour on top.
A smoky eye and defined lip can also turn an underpainted complexion into a full glam look.
The advantage is that the underlying structure can still make the complexion look dimensional even when the visible makeup remains relatively smooth.
Can You Wear Underpainting Makeup During the Day?
Absolutely.
For daytime, use a small amount of cream contour, subtle highlight, and lightweight foundation.
Keep the contour close to the cheekbones and perimeter of the face rather than creating dramatic sculpting.
Add a soft blush and natural lip.
The foundation should be thin enough that the underlying structure remains barely visible.
This creates a polished complexion without requiring a full glam routine.
Underpainting Makeup for Evening
Evening allows you to make the technique more noticeable.
Deepen the contour slightly, add brighter highlight, and use a more perfected foundation layer.
Then add additional blush and highlighter over the foundation.
A deeper eye look, fuller lashes, and defined lips can complement the sculpted complexion.
Because the face already has dimension underneath, the finished makeup can remain smooth while still looking dramatic.
How Do You Create Underpainting Makeup With What You Already Own?
You probably don’t need to purchase anything new.
Use your usual cream or liquid contour, concealer or highlight, and foundation.
Start with the contour and blend it carefully. Add your brightening products, then apply your foundation lightly over the top.
Add your existing bronzer, blush, and highlighter afterward, depending on the look you want.
You can also experiment with a small amount of concealer and a darker foundation shade if you don’t own a traditional contour product.
Why Underpainting Makeup Creates a Softly Sculpted Finish
Underpainting works because you build the complexion in layers instead of placing all the dimension on top of the foundation.
Contour and highlight establish the structure first, then a light foundation layer softens their edges. The result can make cheekbones, the jawline, and other features look defined without leaving the obvious lines that can sometimes happen with traditional contouring.
The technique also lets you control how visible your sculpting is. A sheer foundation can leave more of the underlying work visible, while additional foundation can soften it further.
That’s what makes underpainting so adaptable. You can use the same basic technique for subtle daytime makeup, polished event makeup, or a more dramatic full glam look.
Start with a small amount of contour and highlight on well-prepped skin, blend carefully, then apply your foundation in a thin layer. Once you see how much dimension remains, you can adjust the intensity the next time you try it. The goal of underpainting makeup isn’t to create more visible makeup. It’s to make the definition you already created look as if it belongs naturally within the complexion.